November 14th, 2007
Mushroom Ragout
Serves 6
You can use all wild mushrooms or a combination of wild and cultivated for this.
1 ounce (about 1 cup) dried porcini mushrooms
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion or 2 shallots, chopped
4 garlic cloves, minced or pressed
1 pound mushrooms, cleaned, trimmed, and sliced 1/2 inch thick
1 pound wild mushrooms, trimmed and brushed clean, or oyster mushrooms, trimmed and torn into pieces if very large,
Salt
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1/2 cup fruity red wine, such as a Côtes du Rhone
2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon crumbled dried
2 teaspoons chopped fresh sage
Freshly ground pepper
1. Place the dried mushrooms in a pyrex measuring cup and pour on 2 cups boiling water. Let soak 30 minutes, while you prepare the other ingredients. Place a strainer over a bowl, line it with cheesecloth or paper towels, and drain the mushrooms. Squeeze the mushrooms over the strainer to extract all the flavorful juices. Then rinse the mushrooms, away from the bowl with the soaking liquid, until they are free of sand. Squeeze dry and set aside. If very large, chop coarsely. Measure out 1 1/2 cups of the soaking liquid and set aside.
2. Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy, nonstick skillet over medium heat and add the onion or shallots. Cook, stirring often, until tender, about 5 minutes. Add half the garlic, stir together for about 30 seconds, then add the fresh mushrooms and about a teaspoon of salt. Cook, stirring often, until the mushrooms begin to soften and to sweat, about 5 minutes. Add the flour and continue to cook the mushrooms, stirring, until they have softened a little more and you can no longer see the flour, about 2 minutes. Add the reconstituted dried mushrooms and the wine and turn the heat to high. Cook, stirring, until the liquid boils down and glazes the mushrooms, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the rosemary and sage, stir together, and stir in the mushroom soaking liquid. Bring to a simmer, add salt to taste, and cook over medium-high heat, stirring often, until the mixture the mushrooms are thoroughly tender and fragrant and the surrounding broth is thick and gravy-like, about 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from the heat, stir in some freshly ground pepper, taste and adjust salt. Set aside, preferably in the refrigerator, overnight.
Advance preparation:
The ragoût can be made up to 3 or 4 days before you wish to serve it. Reheat gently on top of the stove.
Wild Rice Pilaf with Green Beans and Almonds
Serves 6
1/3 cup almonds
6 ounces green beans, trimmed and cut in 2-inch lengths
4 cups well seasoned vegetable stock (or chicken stock for non-vegetarians)
Salt
1 1/2 cups wild rice
2 tablespoons butter or olive oil, or a combination
2 shallots, minced
1 tablespoon dry sherry
3 tablespoons minced flat-leaf parsley
freshly ground pepper
1. Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Place the almonds on a baking sheet and roast for 10 minutes, or until they smell toasty. Remove from the oven and transfer to a cutting board. Chop coarsely and set aside.
2. Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil, add a teaspoon of salt and the green beans. Cook 4 to 5 minutes, just until tender. Transfer to a bowl of ice water, allow to cool, and drain. Set aside.
3. Bring the stock to a boil in a large saucepan or soup pot. If it is not well seasoned, add up to a teaspoon of salt. Add the wild rice, bring back to a boil, cover, reduce, the heat, and simmer 45 to 50 minutes, until the rice is tender and the grains have splayed. Remove from the heat and pour off any excess liquid from the pan. Set aside.
4. Heat the butter and/or olive oil in a wide, heavy skillet over medium heat and add the shallots. Cook, stirring, until tender, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the almonds, rice, and sherry and toss together until the mixture is heated through. Add the green beans, parsley, and pepper and stir together. Taste, adjust seasonings, and transfer to a warm serving dish. Serve hot.
